The Science of Big Waves

• Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?
• Wind created when both a high pressure system and a low pressure system meet out at see, this wind then sends waves in the direction of the wind. The other way in which waves can be created is by an earthquake on the sea floor which forces the water away from the epicentre.
• What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing?
• A surfer should be aware of the characteristics of a regions waves, they should also be aware of the immediate area in which they are surfing.
• Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?
• Waves are formed when two pressure systems a high and a low mix and create winds which propel waves to wards the shores of countries around the world. These waves are measured in: Height, period: the time between crest to crest, and wavelength the distance between two crests.    
• What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?
• A maverick wave is a large wave that travels thousands of kilometres to reach its destination near Half Moon Bay. It is formed by a clash of high and low pressure systems near the coast of Alaska the energy brewing in the sky is then transferred down to the ocean by the winds created in the clash. The energy, in the form of a wave, then travels towards the Californian coast where it is highly sought after by many surfers.      
• How is energy stored and transferred during wave?
• Energy is stored in the form of surface going waves which with the energy from the wind then head toward the shore.