Wednesday, 26 October 2011

7.2


Ground Swell - Are waves that are not produced by wind however are not very large and not getting wider than 150m

Plunging Waves - Occur when there are dramatic changes in the depth of the sea floor, which causes the waves to 'plunge' in on itself. 

Spilling Waves - Spilling waves occur when there is a gradual slope in the sea floor until the crest becomes unstable and causes it to 'spill' onto itself. 

Surging Waves - A surging wave is a wave where the floor of the ocean is so step that the wave can reflect into itself.

Wind Swell - Waves generated by local winds

Wave Height - The distance between the trough and the crest of a wave 

Wavelength - The distance between two crests

Fetch - The length of water over which a given wind has blown. 

Surf and Swash Zone - The area where the resulting water goes after a wave has broken. 

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