7.3

Aeolian - Is the process in which winds shape the face of the Earth/

Spinifex - A coastal grass, native to Australia, that grows on sand dunes 

Constructive Waves - Waves that are generally thought to carry sediment due to the fact that they have a large swash zone which pushes further up a beach than other waves.  

Corrasion - Erosion of a surface by materials carried in water streams  

Corrosion - The disintegration of a material due to chemical reactions with its environment.   

Refraction - The direction change in a wave due to a change in its speed 

Deposition - Is the process through which material is added to a land mass.  

Destructive Waves - Plunging waves the have a short wavelength that with each break erode the beach

Erosion - Erosion is the process in which material is removed from an area, usually by wind or flowing water. 

Hydraulic action - Is a form of erosion where flowing water rushes into a crack in a rock compressing the air inside. When the wave recedes the air expands with force enough to chip the rock inside.

Longshore drift - Is the transportation of sediments along a coast at an angle to the shore.  

7.2

Ground Swell - Are waves that are not produced by wind however are not very large and not getting wider than 150m

Plunging Waves - Occur when there are dramatic changes in the depth of the sea floor, which causes the waves to 'plunge' in on itself. 

Spilling Waves - Spilling waves occur when there is a gradual slope in the sea floor until the crest becomes unstable and causes it to 'spill' onto itself. 

Surging Waves - A surging wave is a wave where the floor of the ocean is so step that the wave can reflect into itself.

Wind Swell - Waves generated by local winds

Wave Height - The distance between the trough and the crest of a wave 

Wavelength - The distance between two crests

Fetch - The length of water over which a given wind has blown. 

Surf and Swash Zone - The area where the resulting water goes after a wave has broken. 

7.1

Breakwaters - Are man made structures made to protect a beach from the full impact of waves.

Silting - Is when sediment is carried by a river down stream where it can eventually clog the      river.

Tidal Flushing - Tidal Flushing is when a swamp is filled with seawater and during low tide the water flushes away taking away loose dirt and anything on the sea bed.  

Sea Change - When people move from either rural or urban environments to the oceans. 

Urban Stormwater - Is when the stormwater drains from an urban environment connect to the ocean through piping and empty into the sea.  

Dredging - The clearing of sediments from the bottom of a body of water.  

Introduced plants - A plant species that is not originally from the area.

The Science of Big Waves

• Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?
• Wind created when both a high pressure system and a low pressure system meet out at see, this wind then sends waves in the direction of the wind. The other way in which waves can be created is by an earthquake on the sea floor which forces the water away from the epicentre.
• What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing?
• A surfer should be aware of the characteristics of a regions waves, they should also be aware of the immediate area in which they are surfing.
• Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?
• Waves are formed when two pressure systems a high and a low mix and create winds which propel waves to wards the shores of countries around the world. These waves are measured in: Height, period: the time between crest to crest, and wavelength the distance between two crests.    
• What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?
• A maverick wave is a large wave that travels thousands of kilometres to reach its destination near Half Moon Bay. It is formed by a clash of high and low pressure systems near the coast of Alaska the energy brewing in the sky is then transferred down to the ocean by the winds created in the clash. The energy, in the form of a wave, then travels towards the Californian coast where it is highly sought after by many surfers.      
• How is energy stored and transferred during wave?
• Energy is stored in the form of surface going waves which with the energy from the wind then head toward the shore.